“Mann kunto maula, fa haaza Ali-un maula”
These historic words, mentioned by the Holy Prophet PBUH in a sermon he delivered upon his return from the last pilgrimage in 632 AD, have been immortalized by many of his devout followers. Meaning “Whoever I am master to, Ali is his master too,” these words have been a source of inspiration for many Sufi saints, including Amir Khusro. Amir Khusro (1253-1325) wrote this beautiful qawwali in Brij Bhasha, a language used for devotional poetry, in honor of Ali’s noble memory and praising his bravery in the face of injustice and falsehood. Equally lyrical, Amir Adnan’s interpretation of these words has been epitomized in this collection. Crafted in one organic fabric – linen – the entire collection pays homage to the early days of Islam, the bravado and devotion that fuelled it through centuries. The lines are simple and linear, creating a range of kurtas, pyjamas, shalwars, vests, short jackets, and of course, sherwanis. Dominant colours are khaak (khaaki), sabz (green), lahoo (red), dhaath (metals), mashq (old leather) and moonga (coral).
Amina Yasmeen has emerged as a designer to reckon with for a decade now. The brand established by Mansoor Akram under the name of his mother, initiated with a dream of setting new and different trends in fashion.
The brand is known for subtle color combinations, extraordinary cuts and quality embellishments. Their forte is fusion, be it men’s or women’s wear, and cater to clients from all age groups and walks of life.
In this PBCW, their formal/ bridal collection is all about cuts with different patterns and very classic combinations of colors with fusion of different layers of fabrics. Amina Yasmeen’s collections are available in Karachi, Dubai and Chicago.
In her 2014 Pantene Bridal Couture Week collection Sana Abbas plays with flirty silhouettes and long feminine flares. Using pure fabrics including chiffons, hand-woven silks, jamawar and net in a beautiful palette she has infused traditional crafts such as mukesh, zardozi, resham and delicate embroideries in them, making it the perfect line for the modern eastern bride.
Zainab Chottani’s Bridal Collection has always amazed her audiences and this time her Spring/Summer 2014 collection has revived our traditional weddings with the name Shehnai which caters to our grand, larger than life weddings – a collection which will give our brides a dream to cherish.
This collection is designed considering the Pakistani weddings that are all about colors and events, hence this show is also choreographed in such a way that all the wedding events are covered – starting from the traditional engagement (mangni rasam) to the valima. A variety of embroideries and embellishments like gota work with chatapati, and traditional cuts are infused together.
Bidai is the last event that takes place in the bride’s family. It is a somber occasion for the bride’s parents as it marks the departure of their daughter from their home. The departure of the bride becomes a very emotional scene as she says farewell to the home of her parents and siblings to start a new married life. This collection is based on gotas, vintage Banarsi, karchobs, traditional ghararas, lehngas, cholis and rani coats. Basic focus is on cuts. It’s a tribute to the bride, traditions, customs and values. The bride leaves her house with the groom; she is told to throw three handfuls of rice over her head. The first handful means she is asking forgiveness for her mistakes and also is forgiving anyone who may have hurt her. The second handful means may all the blessing come true which she has received from her family. And the last handful means she is leaving her family to become a part of another and will love and care for them as her own.
Tena Durrani’s Progressive Collection is an extension of her Camellia range, hence it is called Camellia Progressive. It is designed for a progressive woman whose taste and sense of style is deeply rooted in her traditions. It is for a woman who is secure in her ideas of what ‘beautiful’ is, yet, she is young, she is progressive, and wishing to change with the times.
A bridal is not just an outfit for a bride or a guest to wear. As humans, we forget things we see, but we always remember how they made us feel. And so, a true bridal, and the Camellia Progressive collection in particular, is a sentiment, a feeling.
Durrani’s bridals are designed with the intent to make the bride FEEL like the world’s most beautiful woman, because simply put, she IS the most beautiful woman in the world that day. And when a woman feels a certain way, she looks it too.
Tena Durrani’s collection for PBCW, incorporates silk, net, brocade, organza and velvet, with Wedgewood blues, watermelon, garnets and fuchsias all woven in meticulously … seeking to bring Durrani’s vision to life.
Color, in all its coordinating and contrasting glory, is what the Nomi Ansari label is about. The designer believes in blending numerous colors and textures into a cohesive palette, using the perfection of a well-constructed silhouette as his canvas. Nomi Ansari designs boast intricate attention to detail, making traditional occasion wear as high-end as any international luxury brand. It carries the glory of the past on its elaborate, timeless pieces that are pure and pristine – a reminder of the lavish era this subcontinent has witnessed in the past.
His inspiration is the post-partition era, the cultural heritage influence that has its impact on our sense of dressing and style to this day. It is a perfect marriage of the old and contemporary, the known and the forgotten, a celebration of style meticulously crafted in hand-woven fabrics and rare embroidery techniques, and packaged in a vibrant, colorful fashion that is his brand signature. The cuts are a mix of old and new silhouettes; where one finds a perfectly put-together farshi trailing down the aisle, one will also notice more contemporary cuts with skirts, Lucknow cuts and churidars. The men’s wear is also a fun mix of vests, achkhans and kurtas. Colour and vibrancy is at the centre stage in Nomi Ansari’s style. His signature style takes a leaf of inspiration from blending traditional and contemporary silhouettes and adorning it with South Asian embellishments and techniques.
Having had the opportunity to work with a fashion magazine, Somal Halepoto launched her first collection in 2000 and has continued to nurture her love for fashion ever since. She showcased at PFDC Lahore in 2012 and 2013. Showcasing for the first time at Pantene Bridal Couture Week 2014, Somal Halepoto is pleased to announce her Ronak collection. Staying true to her style and element, the collection represents her signature use of intricate embellishments, use of bright colors’ and the precise fusion between modern and traditional work. The line is sophisticated, chic and modern, with a tasteful touch of traditional influences.
“Reflections” by Uzma Babar is all about Pakistani weddings. The collection is based on the five main ceremonies — from Mayoon to Valima which reflect the Big Fat Weddings of Pakistan. With high-tech gleaming fabrics, peppered with glittery beads, they are not only made to sparkle on the catwalk but to give a radiant look to the brides. Clean and modish cuts make for the silhouettes with glitter, embroidery and fine knits. . This collection has magical qualities – sumptuous outfits with vibrant colors float about the body like a mystical glow. They are expertly crafted to perfection with fine detailing, reserved especially for the wedding season.
RANI EMAAN: JEWEL OF THE NILE
This BCW, Rani Emaan brings a breathtakingly gorgeous collection that promises to be remembered for a long time. Hues of reds, maroons, golds, corals, greens and nudes will be showcased with very intricate but detailed embellishments. The exquisitely done pieces are adorned with quintessential kora and dabka but resham cut dana, tila, pearl and real stones rule the roost. The fabrics, including chiffon, kundan, zari, banarsi, self-jamawaar and self-chamois are carefully chosen and put together. Rani Emaan is celebrating colors and the essence of being a woman, the woman that you fall in love with.
POWER HOUSE OF FASHION:
- Ali Xeeshan
- Khadija Shah
- Kamiar Rokhni
- Nickie Nina
- Sana Safinaz
- Shamaeel Ansari
- Umar Sayeed
- Still to be confirmed
The Yasmin Zaman Hanum collection.
This collection has been inspired by the motifs and patterns found in Mughal art and architecture. This artistic universe encompasses floral and geometrical designs symbolizing the fusion of Central Asian and sub continental art forms. The element of arches has also been incorporated to signify the Central Asian aesthetic which has influenced the evolution of dress sense in the subcontinent.
Rich fabrics such as Mysore silk, velvet and jamawar have been used with vibrant jewel tones to bring out the design elements which reflect and expand on our heritage but also introduce foreign concepts and motifs.
Traditional craftsmanship employing aari, zardozi, kamdani, melded with in-house hand- printing has been used to reflect the commonality in our traditional and modern demands. The essence of the aesthetic is timeless. Modern cuts for today’s woman, complemented by traditional styles have been used, which exhibit a fusion which is characteristic of the Yasmin Zaman label.
One of the country’s renowned fashion designers Faraz Manan is exhibiting his collection titled ‘Istanbul’ at Pantene Bridal Couture Week 2014. Inspired by the beautiful fusion of Asian culture and European flavour present in Istanbul, Manan has conjured up fabulous creations out of chikan kari, thread work, and Swarovski to execute this glamorous collection. His collection encapsulates couture and ready-to-wear women’s and menswear for an androgynously chic line. He has also used regal hues like gold and metallic, ice blue nude, prink and olive green to translate austere elegance into his very warp and weft.
This Pantene Bridal Couture Week 2014, Istanbul by Faraz Manan will be a collection that will be gathered, tucked, embroidered and allowed to fall loose in rumpled luxury with a perfect blend of western fusion with eastern embellishments.
Following the brand’s showcase of their acclaimed “Urban Jungle Collection” in Lahore and “The Kothari Parade” at a private show in London, Nida Azwer Atelier brings to the runway their bridal collection, “The Kothari Parade II”, at the Bridal Couture Week on the 11th of May 2014, in Karachi. As the collection name suggests, The Kothari Parade II is an extension of the inspiration behind her showcase exhibited in April in London. Indeed, Nida Azwer has drawn inspiration from her love of the sub continental culture and history, working across fabrics such as French Chantilly lace, fine silks, masuri, brocades, nets and cotton nets in a range of hues featuring shades of red, rust, navy blue and turquoise with accents of purple and grey. Expect varied voluminous outfits paying homage to the elaborate and grand silhouettes of the Mughal Court with embellishments in the designer’s signature miniature embroidery and resham along with zardozi and gota work. Alongside more traditional cuts, Nida Azwer Atelier will also be introducing “unchi goth ka ghara”, layered panel shirts and lenghas paired with jackets and net duppatas. Speaking about her collection for Bridal Couture Week, Nida Azwer has said, ‘My latest collection pays homage to the royalty and revelry of the bygone Mughal era, allowing us to revive craft, design and silhouettes from that period in history. I have always had a passion for the more classic and vintage design elements infused with traditional crafts worked into contemporary fashion silhouettes all of which is manifest within The Kothari Collection II.”
An established name in the fashion industry for over a decade, Mifrah will be depicting a collection inspired by the Lucknawi culture. Duly understanding the grace of the intricate and delicate hand-embroideries donned by the women of the Sultanate, she has created ensembles that remain fashionable in today’s world. Mifrah unveils contemporary gowns and traditional bridal outfits which have ruled our culture for an indefinite period, in this PBCW.
It’s worth knowing who Nauman Arfeen is, but even more so, it’s worth investing in one of his tailored to perfection sherwanis and intricately embroidered women’s wear. Arfeen is an iconic Pakistani designer who started his career by wrapping turbans, and is revered as one of the finest intricate turban-wrappers in Pakistan, as well as a renowned menswear designer who has stepped into the realm of women’s wear designing. His core values have remained the same throughout: move with the times, but maintain timelessness and high quality. Arfeen designs to suit all budgets, but when his ensemble is worn, the wearer feel like a majestic being.
After the spectacular response of her last foray at Pantene Bridal Couture Week in 2013 with her breathtaking collection ‘Two Seasons,’ this is the fourth time Tabassum Mughal Haute Couture’ will participate at Pantene BCW.
The present collection for PBCW 2014 ‘Floral Tapestries/’Embroidered Dreams’ is deeply inspired by nature and the royal courts of the 16th century. With a resplendently kaleidoscopic and colorful nod to the spring season with ornate ombré gowns, the collection is a glorious interplay between art, nature and fashion, with artistic representations of vases and urns filled with aromatic blooming flowers, with the gilded floral motifs redolent of Renaissance-era tapestries. Notably, the house’s ruby- red bridal coats featuring richly embroidered depictions of wildlife and gold urns add an element of art to the collection. Soft, sheer fabrics including lace, net and chiffon are juxtaposed with rich elements such as pure silk and velvet in three distinct palettes: ivory and gold; gradient tonal ombré, and rich and regal hues such as deep ruby-red, effervescent emerald green and claret. Using her signature intricate metal-wire and silk-thread embroidery, end-noted with pearls, semi-precious stones and Swarovski crystals, each silhouette from the collection, including those with novel cuts and detailed draping resonates with royal grandeur while being versatile enough to be timeless and luxury-prêt. Brides who pick pieces from ‘Floral Tapestries/’Embroidered Dreams’ will undoubtedly feel glamorous, regal, elegant and of course, beautiful.
NOOR-E-KUAAR boasts the lifestyle of Rani Noor, the exquisite beauty of Noor Mahal. This collection is gracefully adorned with the mesmerizing artistry of the Mahal but has a supreme cultural feel to it that further adds to its luxuriousness. Asif &Nabeel designed Noor-e-Kuaar keeping in mind the need to have something magnificent, traditional yet contemporary and with the trendiest of styles to give a pleasant bridal look this season.
In an extension of celebrating his 20 years of success in the fashion industry – Hassan Sheheryar Yasin proudly presents the Orchid Collection this time at the Bridal Couture Week Karachi.
The Orchid Collection derives its inspiration from the radiant bloom and creates a captivating harmony of fuchsia, purple and pink undertones combined with intricate embroideries and fabric textures.
This magical collection intrigues the eye with its clever layering of separates and sparks the imagination with its use of colors inspired by the beauty of nature. The Orchid Collection gives all HSY fans a huge reason to celebrate as it consists of a wide range of nikkah and engagement outfits which are available at a whole new price range which will make it easier for the brand to reach out to a wider clientele. The collection will be available on order at the HSY Studio in Lahore from the 15th of May.